He was large—fat, really, in a yellow polo shirt tucked across his girth into the groaning waistband of expansive khaki shorts, and wore a USS Bushnell ball cap. And he had just called a grown woman a “tootsie.” That we were in a small theater simulating a nuclear explosion just added to the surrealism. I was finding it very hard to tap into my compassionate, “We are all one people” inner Buddha-child.
I was at the Atomic Testing Museum in Las Vegas, which I had happened to see from the car window while my dad drove us to their house from the airport Thanksgiving morning a few days earlier. That’s not something you see every day, I thought. So on an otherwise lazy afternoon I lobbied for a trip to the museum, dedicated to all things related to the Nevada Test Site, 65 miles from Las Vegas.
I figured there would be kitchy fallout shelter Public Service Announcement films and ads for Atomic Cocktails, but other than that I wasn’t really sure what to expect. There was indeed a display of toys and pop culture artifacts from the America of the Fifties’ fascination with anything nuclear, but the majority of the museum dealt with explaining the mindset behind the decision to test nuclear weapons at the site from 1951 until 1992, and the practicalities involved.
We converged with the Large Man at the creepily named Ground Zero Theater — “Immerse yourself in a multi-sensory experience that simulates an above ground test and explains the history of Atomic Testing.”
After the initial explosion, complete with white flash, rumbling seats and an air pressure blast, the movie continued with interviews with scientists and technicians who worked at the site. Coming from the generation and culture that abhors anything nuclear out of hand, (and having grown up near Three Mile Island, which scared the bejeezus out of me as a sixth grader), I was surprised and a bit discomfited to hear an oft-repeated opinion that the testing at the NTS may have kept us out of the greater evil of a Hot War with the Soviet Union.
This made me feel weird. I’ve never been a No Nukes protestor, but I’ve always considered them to be Not a Good Idea, and the thought that I might owe some of my current liberty to something so abhorrent was unsettling.
One NTS testing engineer, referring to protestors at the site, said that he got frustrated seeing them, “Because the thing they are protesting against is the very thing that enables them to protest.” (At this point the Large Man started talking back to the screen, saying, “That’s right. Good for you.”) Another scientist said he felt that he was on the front lines of the Cold War, and that anytime you are on the forefront of technology there is a risk. A woman scientist from UNLV, wearing a light blue jacket with a Nevada pin on the lapel, said that she did believe the NTS testing helped win the Cold War, but at what cost? Was it worth the risk to the people who were exposed?
As we left the theater, the Large Man turned to his lady companion. “That tootsie that spoke near the end there. I worry about people like her.”
Tootsie? Is that a fitting description for a nuclear scientist, just because she voices some compassion? And what does that make me? Can I aspire to a world that’s more than either/or, where compassion for the few isn’t negated by the greater good of society? And can I really have compassion for someone who would undoubtedly call me a tootsie if he only knew?
(Atomic Testing Museum photo courtesy of Marcin Wichary via Creative Commons)
(Fallout Shelter sign photo courtesy of suttonhoo via Creative Commons)
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